![]() Once you locate the housing unit, disconnect the sensor on top of it.As mentioned earlier, check your user manual if you’re unsure. You may need to remove the side panels if you cannot access the housing unit with just the back panel off. Next, find the housing unit that protects the heating element.Unthread all these screws, and you should be able to unclip the back panel. At the back of your dryer will be several screws that hold it in place. It will have a diagram of the different parts of your dryer.įollow these instructions to dismantle your dryer: The instructions below should apply to most dryer models, but check your user manual if possible. Once the power and vent have been unplugged, the next step is dismantling your dryer so you can access the heating element and remove it. Step 2 – Gain Access to the Heating Element Once unplugged, disconnect the vent (if applicable) and pull it out from the wall. ![]() Next, you will want to unplug it from the socket so you can move your appliance out of the wall. Start by turning the power off to your dryer. Simply follow our general step-by-step instructions below. If these steps don’t work, you will need to purchase a new heating element and install it in your appliance. However, before replacing the heating element, it’s best to rule out all of the simple possible causes of your dryer not working, such as the power supply, and try doing a simple reset. ![]() Want to learn more about how voltage works in a circuit and how to apply that knowledge to real world troubleshooting? Click below to check out our Core Appliance Repair Training course right here at the Master Samurai Tech Academy.If your dryer has stopped heating, it’s likely that the heating element is faulty and needs to be replaced. There’s a fuse for each line on the terminal block, and one of them had popped, effectively creating the scenario I described above. And since L1 has no voltage difference with itself, our loading meter told us there were 0 volts across the heating element.Īnd wouldn’t you know it - those marked-up schematics show exactly what happened in our little case study. We now see how we got that reading earlier: we were reading L1 on both sides of the heating element. That means that if voltage is present on one side of a conductor, even a load like the heating element, it will also be present on the other side, since it doesn’t get dropped. Without current flow, there’s no voltage drop. Here’s what happens: since we no longer have a valid circuit, there’s no current flow. I’ve put a break in L2 in the form of that black X. But what would happen if one of those voltage legs were missing? Let’s see how that would look: ![]() Here’s L1 traced out in red, and L2 traced out in orange. ![]() First, let’s look at the schematic and see how this circuit is supposed to function. But we’re still left with a mystery: why are we reading 120 volts on either side of the heater wrt neutral, but not 240 across it? Is this just an example of an open heater? Once you start using a loading meter, like you always should for AC loads, you’ll find that you’ve actually got 0 volts across that heater. I’ve already written about what ghost voltage is and how to avoid being tricked by it, so you should click here to check that post out if you haven’t already. That weird 80 volts you’re seeing? Ghost voltage. There are a couple of things going on here, and one is easily remedied: you need to start using a loading meter. You start your troubleshooting with the heating circuit, and your findings are puzzling: there are 120 volts on either side of the heater with respect to neutral, but when you do a voltage reading across the heater, you get some weird amount like 80 volts. Here’s a scenario taken right from the trials and tribulations of a tech over at Appliantology: you’re troubleshooting a no heat complaint on a GE electric dryer. ![]()
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